Muses and Music

My friend Win's voice had been drumming on my brain ever since I asked for his suggestions for our visit to New Orleans. "Well, of course you're going to listen to music" he said, with perfect clarity, like it is the main reason one would visit New Orleans.

 Never mind the beignets, or the gumbo, or the oysters, or the pork cheeks, or the boudin balls, or the bananas foster bread pudding, I had to listen to music and I had not listened to any music and it was the last night of our stay. John had a headache and was in bed. I was sitting on the couch inventing lies that I could use when folks said, "What music did you hear in New Orleans?"

John got up and said he was feeling a little better. I was so relieved cause I was really coming up empty with the lies. 

I regret that I've never been one to seek out music experiences. Sometimes I would get excited about someone I know playing music or some performer that I have always adored performing a concert, but overall I am not a big music fan. I didn't really understand what the big attraction was when I could just buy the CD  or "pandora" the artist.

But with Win's voice haunting me and John's generosity in rallying from his slumbers, we ventured out into the cold night on our music adventure. 

We decided we wanted to go to "The Three Muses" on Frenchmen Street in the French Quarter. We didn't recognize any of the artists playing, but it had food, which was something I understood well.

 We strolled down Bourbon Street, which is an experience the guidebooks dismissed, but one that I recommend. It was like a step back in time-- neon signs flashing all sorts of colorful slogans, colorful characters offering all sorts of promises and lots of colorful music. I told John it reminded me of Pottersvile in "It's a Wonderful Life" when Jimmy Stewart gets a glimpse of what his life would look like without him. We strolled past lots of alcohol in many shapes and sizes. In New Orleans, you can carry your drink out of the bar and down the street. We even had our picture taken with a giant sign that said  "Big Ass Beers" because John had some special friends he thought would get a kick out of seeing him carrying it.

We found Frenchmen Street and The Three Muses. Both were packed with people. We had to wait outside for about an hour before we could go inside. But in just a few minutes a big old brass band spontaneously formed on the corner and played this amazing music. I was so struck by their skill and their camaraderie and warmth. I was struck by the friendliness and fun that started to exude from all the listeners. I lost the eagerness to enter the bar and just took in the joyful music that was pretty much free to hear.

We did get to hear the music inside too and it was a great old country trio singing and playing piano, trumpet and a washboard. There was nothing staged or packaged about these performers. They were just good, wholesome musicians sharing their talents. I was starting to feel content. I felt that rare feeling of unity with strangers. I noticed my foot was tapping and I had little interest in food. Hmmm. I think it was the music.

You obviously must listen to music when you visit New Orleans!